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Posted by on Oct 30, 2011 in Archives, Travel |

My Day of the Dead adventure begins

My Day of the Dead adventure begins


After being in transit for almost 30 hours, I’ve arrived.

Left Kaethe’s at 5:30 am for 6 am checkin at YVR. A bit over the top as I waited at security for 10 minutes before it opened. Beauty was that there were no lineups. Lift off at 9 a.m and landed in Puerto Vallarta at about 3:30 – it’s two hours ahead of Van time, which makes it a 4+-hour flight. Went to the bus depot immediately from the airport and a bus was leaving in like 15 minutes at 5 pm, so I took it, which was probably a mistake. No good food, no break from sitting for mega hourage. Even though the seats are pretty decent on Primera Plus busline, they don’t compare to the luxury of the buses in Peru and Argentina – and sitting until about 3 a.m was uber the top. It’s 9 a.m. My body needs a good lie down.

I just want to say we didn’t get held up in the night bus, guys. And not tons of military because of the narco trafficking action. Everything appeared muy copestetico.

I wound up in Patzcuaro at 4:30 a.m, but it turned out that there is a time change, which made it 3:30 – and dark and bone cold. No heating in the bus depot and I couldn’t exactly show up at the B&B in the middle of the night. So I put on all my clothes – not enough of them as I found out, walked back and forth to keep warm, found out a return bus schedule that works for me and chatted with the taxi drivers. At 6 a.m. the little food kiosk opened so I bought herbal tea to warm up and listened to the impromptu guitar solo by a guy at the far end of the terminal.

Finally, nearing 7 a.m daylight was creeping its way into the sky from behind the mountains and I took a cab to this little village Cucuchucho where Casa Santiago is, which is where I’m staying. It seems super cool.

Although I’d told my hosts that I’d be getting in around noon, I arrived about five hours early, but Kevin and Arminda made me feel right at home. Arminda is a local, smiley, busy and friendly – we chatted in Spanish – and Kevin is from San Francisco. He’s a photographer and was in Nicaragua in the ’80s.

They’ve both gone off to work and run errands and have left me in their fabulous, oh so traditional Mexican place – lots of indigo blue and terra cotta, lots of ceramic tile,  abundant photography and art on the walls, a couple of super nice patios with cactii, bamboo, stone sculpture. Wireless works like a hot damn. Coffee is good.

I’m beat.I’m going to take a hot shower, jump into fabulous bed with warm woollen blankets – have I already said it’s cold up here?

I took a couple of photos when I arrived at 7 a.m. with soft light bathing pastures and foggy distant landscape. Totally beautiful rural village less than half an hour from full-on action in Patzcuaro, which I still need to explore. I’ll do that later. After sleep.